Tuesday 20 April 2010

Last Days in Sri Lanka!

So, I'm sorry it's a bit late. We haven't seemed to have the time but using the Internet in India is hugely cheaper than in Sri Lanka so I am doing them both today!

Our last few days in Sri Lanka were particularly memorable ones, we met our driver early morning on 16th April. He was the same age as us and pulled up in his sisters car, a very nice Japanese people carrier with A/C. We started early and went down the south coast further east towards Yala National Park, along the way stopping at a Turtle hatchery, Various Buddhist Temples and to see the stilt fisherman. The towns: Koggala, Welligama, Mirissa, Matara, Dickwella, Tangalla until we reached our destination... Tissamaharama.

It was all very interesting and there was some particularly idyllic beaches along the way but what struck me most was the turtle hatcheries, I can't say I enjoyed this experience. Though the people are doing a good thing in general, buying eggs from local fisherman and replanting them safely in protected sand to expand the turtle population, I couldn't help but think there is NO WAY that it is a non profit organisation and that the poor big turtle they kept in a tank not much bigger than itself to show visitors what they grow into looked extremely un-happy and Daniel and I almost smuggled it out and ran off with it down the beach!! The day was otherwise fantastic and finished in a trip to Yala National Park by Jeep! This was a truly magical experience and certainly lived up to my expectations for our first ever safari. In moments of entering the park we saw a leopard and hoards of elephants of all ages! There was loads of peacocks (Which made me think of home and Grans house) and some beautiful colourful birds. I have to say I think the monkeys were my favourite, they swung daringly from tree to tree in an almost acrobatic manner! We stayed there late and had the pleasure of a sunset on our drive back.

The next couple of days were followed with a magnificent trip to Ellie and a walk up "Little Adams Peak" I know...we planned to do the big Adams Peak but ran out of time. I am however slightly glad about this as I struggled with making it to the top of the little one! We had the most enchanting view of the mountains in the place we stayed in Ella and even when it began to thunder and lightening, Dan and I still sat out on the balcony admiring the shots of lightening snatch down the valley while the rain poured down! Just Phenomenal! After this we headed to Kandy stopping through Budalla, Nuwara Eilya (Little England) and other little stops on the way! By this point Daniel, Sharn and I had talked about everything and anything. Sharn was a great driver and a lovely guy who very kindly drove us to the airport the next day at 2am in the morning for our flight to India.

In all Sri Lanka was a beautiful country and very friendly although not backpacker friendly and everything isn't budget apart from when we stayed at Ransi and Phillips at the South Ceylon which incredibly cheap compared to anywhere else we found!

Onto India....

Monday 12 April 2010

Unawatuna, Sri Lanka

The time is 1:30pm on Monday 12th April..34 degrees outside (Not however in this lovely A/C cyber cafe!)

Arriving in to Unawatuna was a breeze compared with Hikkaduwa! We haggled a tuktuk down to 900RPS (5.00GBP) and jumped in for a much more comfortable hour long journey! On arrival, following our Rough Guide book religiously we searched for the cheap hotel stated within called "Sunshine Beach Hotel" after driving back and forwards on numerous occasions down the small dusty roads of Unawatuna, Daniel and I finally gave in and told him to drop us somewhere central and we'd make our own way. Quite by chance, this was most definitely the best decision we had made in the last 2 weeks of travelling, as we stumbled across this incredibly cheap hostel. From the outside you'd think nothing more than it being a restaurant on the first floor of a run-down but somewhat quirky building. The guy upstairs asked if we were looking for a room...we replied "Yeah but we don't have much money" he looked somewhat amused by this and the further reply answered why he said it with a certain smirk! "500RPS ok?" he giggled.. Dan and I looked at each other like we'd won the lottery...There hadn't been anywhere cheaper than triple that so far!


We got to our room, smelling faintly of wet dog and stone (which has increasingly worsened throughout the visit) was small, dark and dingy but it had two beds that pushed together and some fresh covers...all we need! The bathroom is shared but very clean and respectful looking!

After a few days the place we've been staying already feels like home! We never rest and being use to working hard I don't think we've let Phillip and Ransi do much at all for us. We have participated with cleaning, serving dishes to customers and kneading bread! Last night was the real challenge as we had 9 customers come in and all the meals were made from scratch! I am becoming quite the expert at Dosa's and Uppuma! In return of course although we ask for nothing (it's nice to feel useful) they bring us extra big pots of tea, make us little extras for food and even give us a beer at the end of the night!


I do love it here although my mind is already wandering...thinking of India! I also could do with a night in a nice hotel! We are staying until Friday and then we head further down the south coast to see the turtle hatcheries and the temples and then onto Yala National Park where we're getting a jeep ride!

So for now I can't write anymore I have promised Ransi i will be back to help her make...and eat.. some famous Sri Lankan Rice and Curry!

Take care guys and hopefully we'll have chance to write again properly on arrival in India (19th April). Hope all is well back in England! x x

Tuesday 6 April 2010

Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka and Getting There!

Our journey began on Sunday 4th April first thing (about 6.30am) we said our goodbyes to the guesthouse manager Vincent, who we had grown fond of. With our backpacks packed and stuffed full to the point of bursting we headed to Dehiwala train station. We bought our tickets and jumped aboard, trawling up and down the rickety old, battered train there was no sign of a seat anywhere and very little chance of anyone making space for us. Instead we stood up awkwardly with our backpacks strapped tightly on our backs and stood up in between carriages, hanging on for dear life whilst the train (without warning) through us from side to side. Within a matter of time we soon got use to it and even, dare I say it, began to enjoy the feeling of the warm wind vigorously flow through our hair. We later arrived at Hikkaduwa two and a half hours later!


Hikkaduwa is fantastic! Beautiful and serene with idyllic picturesque view of beaches with palm trees and turquoise seas. There's a lot of "Surfer Types" here but being the back end of the season everything is really starting to quieten down.

We have spent our mornings walking up around 7.30am and going down for a morning swim in the Indian Ocean. The waves here are pretty big and the currents quite strong so we're careful not to swim far out...it does wonders for your thighs though! Our mid-mornings are then followed by walks down the beach and talking about all the things we have planned, re-arranging ideas and putting them into some kind of organized mess! Our afternoons are filled with some kind of walk or trip out of town. Today we went and saw two Buddhist Temples and The Largest Buddha in Sri Lanka and we met a really nice guy that showed us around everywhere and didn't even try and blag a few extra pennies!

Tonight we're heading to a local restaurant for some Traditional Roti, it's awesome and very cheap! Just perfect! Tomorrow we head to Unawatuna for some more Beach times and fit in a few cultural experiences along the way! I know this ending seems a bit rushed but whilst I am typing the power in the Cyber Cafe keeps on flicking on and off (luckily only the lighting) so it makes it particularly difficult to type!

I will write again soon... there's so much I have still to tell you all!...

Saturday 3 April 2010

First few Days in Sri Lanka, Colombo, Dehiwala

Good Afternoon,

We arrived yesterday with next to no sleep! The flights were punishing and we had 15 minutes to transfer at Qatar as there was a delay from Manchester. We ran our socks off and just about made it! On the first flight I enjoyed a bit of Sherlock Holmes and some music. Second flight I tried my hardest to sleep, but with the combination of bright lights, cramped space and screaming children, I must have got at best an hour in total.

On arrival at Colombo airport ( which is NO WAY NEAR Colombo!!) we thought for a couple of seconds about getting the 2 hour bus journey and then decided an air conditioned taxi would be much more suitable at $25 it was a little over priced but we still haggled him down to $23 (Anything to save a few pennies). Whilst fearing for our lives, the drivers in Sri Lanka will literally try anything just to gain a few inches. It took a mere hour and a half to arrive at Hornbill Home Hostel.

Hornbill Home Hostel is very quiet and secluded...away from tourists that is. There's very nice staff here that really do go out their way for you. I would definitely recommend it on service although unfortunately the location is far from great- located in a very poor suburb where families sleep on the beach, there's half built buildings everywhere due to lack of money in the area and the smell of rotting fish, sewers and strong incense fills the daytime air.

Although our first day was tough, we have been and investigated the area and train station. We plan to take the train tomorrow to Hikkaduwa which is a much nicer area famous for it's surf, snorkelling and beaches.

So until we can next post, Au Revoir! x