Sunday 16 May 2010

Calangute, Goa & Hampi, Karnataka: India

We arrived in Calangute after a day an a half of travelling, two trains and a long, jolting taxi ride. A few beers later and some good conversation we were already beginning to settle in nicely. Daniel and I planned to stay for about a week but after speaking to Michelle and Avi in great detail, we agreed it would be far cheaper for us to travel from here to different places so the next step was finding our self an apartment and a scooter to get around. 2 months in Goa here we come.


The apartment: We live next door to Michelle and Avi, it's all technically one place with a door in the middle with a lock on it so we can all have some privacy when we want it. We live about 5 minutes walk from the beach in an area called "Gaura Waddo". We've been here nearly 3 weeks now and our apartment is just perfect. We have a nice clean shower room, a large lounge with pull out sofa bed and Sky TV, a kitchen that we never use (It's so much cheaper to order Punjabi) and a reasonable sized bedroom with a small private balcony which always catches the sun first thing on a morning.

The Bike: Well we've had some fun with this. We love it, turquoise in colour and somewhat old and antiquated, but it gets us from A to B whilst making some interesting groaning noises. Daniel and I nip in and out of traffic, it's truly the best way to travel here. We have been all around Goa visiting places up and down the coast on it, there's no better way to visit places on a hot day, as soon as we get too warm we're back on the bike heading to the next place. I don't think the traffic here is that bad and once you get use to the fact that there's no right of way as such you just go with the flow of things.

Last weekend we took our first big trip out of Goa to Karnataka which is east of Goa. Michelle and Avi had introduced us to a group of friends they had met through the charity they're volunteering for so we all travelled together. There was seven of us in total. Daniel, Myself, Michelle, Avi, Sam, Prya and Peter. Very nice friendly people with a true passion for helping which I admire very much. The plan was to go to Hampi for Sam's 25th Birthday.

On Friday morning we all had to be up at the crack of dawn. 6am sharp. It was still dark outside and I struggled to convince myself to get out of bed. We packed our bags last minute and rushed out of our apartment with Avi and Michelle following close behind. The taxi was waiting at the end of our road and we were heading to Prya and Sams next to pick them up. The train departed from Vasco da Gama and headed to Hospet which is the closest town to Hampi. We boarded the train at 7:40am and set off on our 8 hour journey to Hospet. This train was second class sleeper which was perfectly fine, in fact exactly the same as 3 tier AC but without the AC! The one other difference is there are alot of beggars in second class.


We all sat down made ourselves comfortable and began playing card games to kill a few of the eight hour long journey. Part way through our embark to Hospet an Indian man joined us and told us he was an under cover police officer. He seemed to take a particular liking to Prya and stayed and chatted to us for the next few hours. This smartly dressed gentleman with impressive gold jewellery and excellent English then did something that totally shocked me. A woman or what I though was a woman at the angle I could see her from, pounced on him. A green and pink sari covered her and she was demanding something in Hindi. Suddenly I heard this sharp sound that peirced the air, alarmed and unaware of what was going on I turned around to see the smartly dressed under cover police officer giving this woman the hardest slap I think I have ever seen on both cheeks. Her face was shocked and then a realisation of who he was suddenly swarmed over her. She ran off and we didn't see her again. At this point I was confused I didn't understand why this man had just hit a woman in public so asked Prya what had gone on. Prya explained that in India men often dress up as woman and pounce on other men to make them feel uncomfortable and threatened, so the man pays them to go away. Often they are seen to put curses on people if they do not give money. This lady-boy however obviously got more than she bargained for. A sharp slap to the face is often given in public to disrespectful people. I better be careful ay!?


We arrived 8 hours later in Hospet. Tracking down 3 Tuk Tuks to take us 15 minutes down the road to Hampi was very easy and very soon we arrived in the most picturesque place I have ever seen. The first night we stayed in Hampi Bizaar. The side with no drinking, no meat and lots of beautiful temples. It's mounds of ginormous boulders make Hampi look like a prehistoric landscape. This once dazzling Hindu capital was apparently devastated in the early 1600 which left it looking like a ghost town, it has a certain magic to it and every view is breath taking.


We managed to bag a room for 150RPS each a night between two (About £2.50) and we all slept amazingly well after a long day of travelling, watching the sun set over the Virupaksha Temple as we all sat in a row looking down over the Hampi Bazaa in the warm air of the night against the still impressively hot stones which hadn't yet cooled down from the midday sun. We had a lovely meal and scurried back to our beds for a good nights sleep.

The following morning we were up bright and early 7.30am with 4 bikes waiting outside for us. We hired them to see the temples further a field and that we did. We visit the Lotus Mahal and behind which was the elephant stables. A series of high ceilinged stables built from stone with arches for the elephants to enter, extremely grand looking. It was a fantastic day with lots of new sites to take in after which we headed to get the boat across to the other side "Virupapuragadda". Apparently they were going to build a bridge across but the boat company that charges tourist to travel across paid off the police. I don't know the exact amount but it's a lot of money. They now charge you 15RPS for a 2 minute boat ride across the river and there's no getting round it!

Once arriving on the other side we managed to get another room for 150RPS again thanks to Prya's excellent negotiation skills, she's a very handy person to have about as she speaks fluent Hindi and is a very lovely lady! We had a reasonably quiet night with a few spirits and a couple of easy going drinking games. Another early start in the morning and hangovers and sun don't mix well!

The next day we hired more bikes and explored this side of Hampi: it's alluring, stunning backdrop sincerely makes this my number one spot in India. We visited Hanuman Temple which it involved climbing an unholy amount of stirs in scorching midday heat, although the monkeys that sat and followed closely behind you were a real pleasure. All with their own personalities and smiling faces. A day of following small dirt roads and going off the beaten track! Just idyllic.


Back home we went on late Sunday night on a sleeper train back to Vasco. It went really fast and I am getting increasingly competent of sleeping wherever I'm put! A fabulous weekend all round and my writing just doesn't do Hampi justice. I really really loved it!

Since then, we've had days exploring Goa, window shopping and relaxing. We have found a hotel up the road from us that will let us swim in their pool all day long for about £1.40 and it means we get to use the sun loungers too! Perfect way to make us feel like it's a holiday and a good way to balance the adventuring and the relaxing.

This weekend we're hoping to travel to Palolem which will take us about 3 hours on the bike in the far south of Goa. Apparently, deserted beaches and a real hippy hangout....we'll soon see! Anyway know that we're having the time of our lives but that we miss you all very much. Please keep reading and leaving your very much welcomed comments.

Love and Light x

Thursday 13 May 2010

I am shocking at keeping up with this!

So, I know..... I am terrible and I can't use an excuses of being busy because I'm not. I have however been unable to use the Internet for more than 10 minutes at a time which can be somewhat limiting when your trying to reply, update and not ignore people. You'll be glad to know It's all sorted now as we're are living in Calangute, Goa for 2 months!

The last time I updated I was in Sri Lanka and we are now in India. Our first stop was Trivandrum. We arrived in Trivandrum, Kerela's capital city on the 19th May 2010. We flew over from Sri Lanka by a short 1 hour flight although both Daniel and I had very little sleep the night before and this made for a tough first day!


We took a Tuk Tuk through the busy, dirty city to the main popular strip called MJ Road, north of the train station. The Tuk Tuk driver as a granted tried to rip us off but we were having non of it. Daniels bank card wasn't working however and luckily at times like that you praise being together as it means you always have a spare. Mine worked without any trouble and we continued to our destination. After arriving we then had to find somewhere to stay so started our walk up an down the street and after about 3 tries we found somewhere with expensive rooms for what they were but in a big city it was to be expected! Daniel and I dumped our bags down and headed out to investigate our new surroundings. I don't know if it was because of the lack of sleep but I remember feeling like a little girl in a very big city, like an unwelcome guest almost. It felt everywhere I turned people were staring and no one spoke to me they just addressed Daniel. I remember feeling like I hated it, hoping that all of India wasn't going to be like this!

The following day after a good nights sleep, the world and India seemed like a much brighter place an all my worries slowly drifted away from there on out. We also soon got accustomed to our new pet cockroach. Most rooms seem to come with one with no extra charge. They don't bother me anymore, after screeching like a little girl and throwing my hands around whilst running in circles for the first few times, I'm now starting to name them and the lizards like they're a new family pet! Oh dear!.... We spent the next 3 days sorting out our travel plans and trying to get a train out of town but with all the will in the world and pain-staking long hours spent in the train station to no avail. Last chance was a AC bus out of town straight to Ernakulam which sits opposite to it's neighbouring tourist island Cochin or Kochi it's more often called.

The bus trip was very easy going and the mere 4 hour journey felt like a walk in the park. We arrived at night and Ernakulam is somewhat more high tech than Trivandrum with it's high rise buildings and luminous signs on every shop which lit the streets up with a multi-coloured glow and led the way to our next guest house after another short Tuk Tuk ride. For the first night we treated ourselves to a non cockroach room with soap and toilet roll (big treat). We left the next day to a room at half the price about £4 a night and got some free bed bugs this time. My bum was not a pretty sight for the next few days even though we provided our own bed bug free sheets!

We travelled over to Kochi by ferry and it's very, very touristy. The buildings are Portuguese in style with influence from the English and Dutch. The huge and impressive Chinese fishing nets line the sea front, in front of which stalls tried selling all kinds of rubbish to passing by tourists. I wasn't blown away by Kochi and am somewhat surprised that it is seen as one of the top places to see in India. You can do it in a day.

The Backwaters "Kochi" a very worthwhile experience, we were collected at our hostel by transport that took us an hour away at the starting point of the trip. We got in this huge weaved house boat, it was beautiful. Two men stood either end of the boat steering it with just a long wooden stick! No motor, no extra help..... Amazing. It's truly wonderful meandering through the small backwater passage ways with no sounds other than the odd bird or cricket in the grass. We later stopped off to see women spinning coconut hair to make rope and ate traditional Thali off a banana leaf which was followed by a long peaceful ride back through a large lake. Perfect!


After Kochi we got an over night train to Goa. The trains are not as bad as what you would imagine. They are reasonably comfortable and not as busy as you think they would be as long as you reserve your seat. So a great nights sleep and we arrived in Mangalore the next morning to wait for 5 hours before getting on the next train to stop at Margao, Goa.


We decided to have a look around Mangalore to kill some time and get some food. This was by far my worst place so far. The food we ate made Daniel and I quite ill so we spent the next few days getting well acquainted with Avi and Michelle's toilet. Not to mention the worst moment of my life having to use a toilet in the ground in Mangalore. This is not an exaggeration and for that reason I'm not going to give you all the details of the state in which the toilet was in when I entered it, as I don't want to put you all off eating your lovely Sunday dinners (I miss a good Roast!).

Finally we arrived in Calangute, Goa after a terrifying and long taxi ride from the station at 8pm at night. Going over speed bumps at 40mph is not advised! They wonder why all the suspension on the cars are shot!!!

A few beers and a great catch up was very much appreciated after the day and a half of travelling. Also hello soap and toilet roll it's so great to see you again! Lol. Here we are.

To think there's still so much more to tell you but that will have to be it for now. Stay tuned for more very soon....I promise.